Putting The Labor Into Labor Day Weekend

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Here's the deal with accepting a lovely box of peaches, gratis: You've got to put 'em up quick like!

Late last week, I got an e-mail from the leader of Canning Across America, asking if I wanted in on a special delivery: some tree-ripened gems from the Washington State Fruit Commission. Yes, please!

Those beautiful Eastern Washington peaches were the size of softballs. But when I got them home, they were on the firm side. Hmm. What gives?

James Michael, a spokesman for the commission, fleshed things out: "Peaches are a climacteric fruit, meaning they can be harvested when physiologically mature but still firm. They will continue to ripen through respiration after picking. A harvested peach isn't done just because it's off the tree, but attention to handling is extremely important in this phase. Fruit that remains uncooled can deteriorate more in an hour at 90 degrees than all day (24 hours) at 40 degrees... Fruit that's forever maintained at ambient temperature will peak much sooner than cooled fruit, often delivering optimal eating quality in 2-3 days post harvest."

Sure enough, two days later, those peaches were so ready. I needed to rock 'n' roll right away. Good thing I had a dozen Ball pint jars ready to go, and a plan. I was going to make jam as well as brandied peaches, both pretty simple, straightforward recipes. But what a mess!

I am so terrible at cleaning as I go, too focused on getting to the finish line. Which makes for a hot, sticky aftermath. And that's why I prefer doing small-batch canning. But this was a special circumstance because this fruit couldn't wait another day.

Four batches later, I had a whole bunch of beautiful jars cooling on the counter. It took me nearly an hour to deal with the pots and pans and spilled sugar. But, later, when I dished up some of those brandied peaches... kissed by a hint of vanilla, it was so worth it!

-- Leslie Kelly

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